So, what is the hype about retinol, and how should you use it?
First, we need to distinguish what retinol we are talking about. Retinol comes from a family of vitamins A, and you must know which vitamin A you are purchasing and which cannot be bought over the counter.
The retinoid family consists of a group of compounds that are derived from Vitamin A.What’s all the hype about retinol, and how should you use it? First, it's important to clarify what type of retinol we're discussing. Retinol is part of the Vitamin A family, and you should be aware of which forms of Vitamin A you are purchasing, as some cannot be found over the counter.
The retinoid family includes a group of compounds derived from Vitamin A.
Over-the-counter retinoids:
- Retinyl esters
- Retinol
- Retinaldehyde
- Adapalene (previously a prescription-only agent but has now become available over the counter for the treatment of acne)
Prescription-only retinoids:
- Tretinoin
- Isotretinoin
- Tazarotene
When purchasing retinol online or over the counter, you are most likely buying traditional retinol, which is what we will focus on today. Vitamin A is available in various percentages, but it's important to note that a higher percentage does not necessarily mean it's more irritating to the skin. Many people can get confused by this. Retinol requires tolerance building; you need to introduce it slowly and gradually increase the amount used.
In our 20s, cell renewal takes about 28 days. As we age, this process can slow down to as much as 60 days. Therefore, we want to incorporate vitamin A alongside treatments like micro-needling to promote collagen and elastin production.
Because retinol affects our skin at a cellular level, it's crucial to introduce it carefully. We recommend starting with three applications per week for the first 12 weeks, then increasing to four times per week for six weeks, and eventually using it every night.
Other tips for using retinol include avoiding its application in the same routine as AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) or BHA (beta hydroxy acid) products. Since both are often used for similar purposes, combining them on the same day can be too harsh for the skin. The same caution applies to cleansers that contain AHA or BHA.
Apply retinol as the last step in your night-time routine and always use SPF during the day. Additionally, it's advisable to avoid sunbeds. Lastly, do not use retinol in conjunction with vitamin C unless both have been specifically formulated together in a single product.
Does retinol actually work?
Absolutely! The excitement surrounding retinol is supported by scientific evidence, according to DR. Shyamalar Gunatheesan, a dermatologist and founder of ODE Dermatology. “Retinol has been used in cosmetics since 1984. It is the most widely used and studied compound for anti-aging and acne treatment. In many ways, it is the gold standard,” says Dr. Gunatheesan. - Vogue Magazine
